the-environment-friendly-karens-of-the-andamans

The Andaman and Nicobar Islands are not only about turquoise beaches. Chances are, the plywood you are using has come from there. A tribal community made it possible a century ago.

 

The British established Chatham saw mill near Port Blair, in 1883; they were selling timber to Europe. The sawmill, which is still Asia’s largest and oldest, needed to be fed with more timber. It required manpower to cut the virgin forests of the islands.

 

This is how people of the Karen tribe were brought from Burma (now Myanmar). Unlike the Jarawa and Shompen tribes; the Karens are friendly.

 

Initially, just 12 Karen families were brought in 1925. There were two reasons why the tribe was brought all the way from Myanmar. The A&N islands are more than a thousand km away from the nearest land mass in India (1,250 km from Kolkata and 1,200km from Chennai) but only 190 km from Cape of Nargis in Myanmar. Two, the Karens were immune to malaria.

 

The Migration

 

A major ethnic group of Myanmar, Karens were concentrated in the hilly regions; they migrated to the Andamans escaping poverty and marginalisation by the ethnic Burmese. The Christian Missionaries in Myanmar promised them a year’s free ration and agricultural land in the islands. The first batch that arrived in 1925, was followed by another batch of 50 families and more later. Few returned to Myanmar because they could not cope with the inhospitable islands. Those who stayed carry stories of grit. 

 

 

Building material was not available in the islands then. Karens knew how to build strong houses with lumber. They evolved from a forest- based way of life to islander’s life—it was labour intensive and slow. They had to depend on their own devices to survive. That included hunting; finding roots and leaves in the jungles with medicinal properties to cure ailments. They married within the community.   

 

Webi village

 

Webi in Karen means-- the hidden. This is where you find the Karen community in north Andaman. As you walk through the fields in Webi village, you cannot miss á church; built by the priests who brought them. Mayabunder and Karma Tang beach are other areas where Karens are concentrated. The present A&N administration is supporting homestays run by Karen women to preserve their unique culture and forest and environment- based traditions.

 

A 100-year-old Karen house

 

 

To approach Koh Hee house (the island house), a homestay run by Saw John and his wife Naw Doris, you walk through black rice fields; one of the few varieties brought by the Karens hundred years ago. They grow it organically. The century old house, that was built by John’s father, rests on 12 wooden planks sourced from the forests. This hard wood (Artocarpus Lacucha) is naturally termite resistant. The rooms, made of another endemic wood (Lagerstroemia Hypoleuca) and umbrella palm thatch are on the first floor. The umbrella palm thatch needs to be changed every third year. It is labour intensive to build and maintain a Karen house. Many Karens have moved into concrete houses.

 

Respect for environment

The community is self- sufficient—they grow organic rice and vegetables and herbs. John’s father, who lived to the ripe age of 105, was a traditional healer and obstetrician; he delivered Karen babies till he was 90. Men and women both used to hunt with spears till hunting was legal. They still fish with spears, to avoid wastage. A bamboo made fish- catching device is also used. They respect trees and animals and do not kill without need.

 

Slow Food Restaurant

 

Their noodles are not cooked in 2-minutes; made of sticky white rice, it takes 4 days to prepare the noodles cooked in fish soup; it is called Mohinga. Mopeto is made with black sticky rice, coconut and jaggery—the food is labour intensive and healthy.

 

In a civilized world-- Karens are fast losing their unique tribal identity. Their excellent skills in weaving, boat making, archery and bamboo made handicrafts is fading. They are trying to revive the handicrafts through the Andaman Karen Craft Cooperative Society. Karen language is now taught till class 5 in Mayabunder.

 

By Vandana Shukla