A quintessential Indian footwear that had been quietly surviving centuries of everyday grind is finally enjoying its spot under the sun.
The GI-tagged handmade leather sandals or Kohlapuri chappals that represent one of India’s most iconic traditional crafts will now carry an additional layer of protection and authenticity in the form of QR codes to check counterfeiting.
Officials from the government-run Leather Industries Development Corporation of Maharashtra (LIDCOM) said the move was prompted by artisans’ cries for recognition after footwear that looked like the Kohlapuris featured in Italian luxury fashion brand Prada’s new collection and allegations of violation of the GI (Geographical Indication) rights erupted.
Having been accorded the GI tag by both the Maharashtra and Karnataka governments jointly in 2019, the certification defined the product as handmade, using traditional techniques and natural leather, with open-toe construction, and prohibiting the use of synthetic materials or mechanised processes.
Under international trade rules such as the TRIPS agreement, this GI status legally reserves the rights to manufacture and market Kolhapuri chappals to artisans from specific districts in both the states and safeguards the footwear’s cultural legacy.
The LIDCOM has now gone a step further and introduced QR-coded certification for each pair of chappals to tackle counterfeiting and highlight the identity of the artisan or self-help group behind each product, the body said.
This digital protection would ensure that when buyers scan the code, they get access to details like the name and location of the artisan or production unit of the chappals, district of manufacture in Maharashtra, craft techniques and raw materials used, validity and status of the GI certification.
"This initiative not only boosts consumer trust but also strengthens the market position of traditional craftsmen," LIDCOM said in a statement.
Originating in the 12th century, the Kohlapuri chappals were primarily crafted in Maharashtra's Kolhapur, Sangli and Solapur districts. Their distinctive design, which was crafted from naturally-tanned leather and handwoven straps, has been preserved through generations of artisans.
In the early 20th century, the footwear received a major boost in popularity when ruler Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj promoted it as a symbol of self-reliance and ‘swadeshi pride’.
This royal patronage helped elevate the rural craft of creating a coarse village slipper into a respected cottage industry.
The Prada row put the footwear in global spotlight as the fashion giant acknowledged that the sandals showcased in its men's 2026 fashion show were “inspired” by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear.
The brand, however, clarified in a reply to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce that the showcased sandals are still at the design stage and not yet confirmed for commercial production.
A team of experts from Prada then visited Kolhapur to interact with artisans and assess the local footwear-manufacturing process.
LIDCOM is now calling upon consumers, designers and the common public to stand in solidarity with India's indigenous craft traditions.
"Kolhapuri chappals are not just fashion accessories. They are a powerful expression of traditional skill, identity and the dignity of small artisan communities," the statement quoted LIDCOM Managing Director, Prerna Deshbhratar, as saying.
More than just the traditional footwear, they are a symbol of skilled artisanry and indigenous pride which must be protected.
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