A team from the Italian luxury fashion house Prada visited Kolhapur on Tuesday to meet artisans behind the region’s famed leather sandals, following widespread criticism that the brand had showcased Kolhapuri-style footwear without crediting its origins.
The visit comes weeks after the brand presented what critics alleged were Kolhapuri-inspired sandals at its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear show in Milan on 23 June. The sandals, labelled simply as “leather sandals”, bore a striking resemblance to traditional Indian handcrafted designs, sparking allegations of cultural appropriation.
Supported by the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA), the Prada technical team engaged with local craftsmen and visited workshops in the city. MACCIA President Lalit Gandhi hosted the delegation and reiterated calls for meaningful collaboration with Indian artisans.
Kolhapuri chappals, which carry the Geographical Indication (GI) tag, are recognised for their durability, intricate design, and cultural significance. Handcrafted for over a century across Maharashtra and parts of Karnataka, the footwear has come to symbolise Indian artisanal heritage.
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“The GI tag legally recognises the craft’s cultural and regional importance and protects it from unauthorised imitation,” MACCIA officials said.
The row gained traction after social media users and craft advocates criticised Prada’s failure to acknowledge the sandals’ Indian origin. “The inspiration clearly comes from Kolhapuri chappals. At the very least, there should have been attribution,” said an artisan representative present at Tuesday’s interaction.
MACCIA had earlier written to Prada, requesting the brand to recognise the origin of the design and commit to ethical collaborations. “We urged them to explore fair partnerships that would respect both the tradition and the artisans who have preserved this legacy,” said Gandhi.
In response to the controversy, Lorenzo Bertelli, a senior representative from Prada, issued a statement acknowledging the inspiration drawn from Indian handcrafted footwear and conveyed the company’s appreciation of its cultural significance.
However, the fashion house clarified that the designs showcased in Milan remain in the prototype stage and are not confirmed for commercial production.
The brand’s visit to Kolhapur is now being viewed as a step towards reconciliation, and possibly, cooperation. There has been no official word on whether Prada will formally partner with Indian artisans for its final designs.
For the craftspeople of Kolhapur, the moment is significant. “If a brand like Prada wishes to work with us honestly, it can open global doors for our craft, but it must be done respectfully,” one artisan said.
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